Method of making stitchdown shoes



A ril 2, 1935. D. w. BUNKER METHOD OF MAKING'STITCHDOWN SHOES N FiledJuly 27, 1955 ZHY IIIIIIIIIII/IIIIIA =&\\\\\\\\\\\\ the margin 01 whichextends heyondthe-last bot- Patented. p 2, 1935 I a This invention'rel'ates to methods for use in V manufacture of stitch'tlowh'shoes.- I

In the manufacture of stitchdewn shoes, it is usual to'secure to thebottom of the" last a 'sole tom and-is'referred to ask-an extensionsole. -I'Ihe upper is thenassembledupon the last-and its margin securedin outturned" relation to the; ex I tension sole. In one method oflasting asusually practised, a portion of the upperiswiped down theside; of the last,- forced into the angle between the side ofthe lastand the projecting margin of the sole-and secured in the angle bymean's01a staple driven through the upper and sole, this operation Q beingcarried on progressively about the periphery-of the shoe. Anotherusual-method is to work the upper into the angle between the side ofthe" last and the projectingmargm of the sole and to-secure' it by'aseam located in angle. More recently attemptsha-ve-been'ma de to combinethese twomethods by applying staple lasting method to secu'rthe upper inlasted relation totheisol'e at salient points only about the peripheryofthe shoeandthen to sew'; a seam throughthe uppe and solesubstantially;

along thelineof the previously df-ivenstapless This practice results-infrequent-breakage of'n'eedles since the stitches and' staples aresubstantially'in the sanieline; 1 i i 1 7 Objects of this invention areto provide anreth od of making stitchdown shoes whichwill "facilitateand improve their manufacture andobviate the'breakage of needles; withtheseobjects in view the invention cqmprises'f workingan outturnedupper, atsalient-points aboutthe periphcry of the shoe, over a last andagainst the mar gin of a substantially flat extension sole, securing theupper to the sole ateachipoint'by ametal'lic fastening, staple orotherjdriveniaste'ning, driven through the upper and the sol'eextensions-and} spaced outwardly from the angle between the side.

of the last and the proj'e'cti ng ifn arg'in of the sole or, morestrictly speaking, between the-side of the-shoe and the outturnedportion of the upper, and then further tensioning the upper and work'-ing it slightly under'the bottom of the last while i the staples remain,inplace preferably by utilizing end-embracing'wipers'which act to shapethe outwardly bulging portions of the upper between the staples to thesidesof the last and act on the upper-inwardly of the staplessimultaneously to draw all parts of the toe of the upper tightly overthe last and to force it into the angle between the side of the last andthe projecting margin of the sole' and slightly under the last bottom.Thereafter the upper attached to the extension sole' by a seam locatedir rthe ang lelormed by the wipers and between i the stapls and I theside effthe upper-fin lasted e positionin which 1-, was ft'ef the seamdg'mpl'ffi ii'desiredt 'Inthe 'drawi'ng, i

Figil is'a sectionalfview; partly in side elevation, of shoebeingoperated upon by a' stapling mechani sta-plebein'g placed outwardlyof the a ebet'weenthe extension sole and the side of the last; r

*Fig. 2;i-s 'a prspective view of thetoe o! a 1 after the upper has beensecuredtp the sole-at salient points around the of the shoe; 5 f Fig. 3'is a s'ectional"viewamend-embra ing upperinwardly '01? {the thelastbottom;

pers acting upon the Fig. 4 is aperspectivetiew'illustrating the step;of sewing the seam'bet'we'enthestaples andthe side-of the lasttosecure'thejupper in theyangle.

between the side; of the lastan'dthe proae'c'ting margin of thefsolefandcompleted shoe. F In the practice of my sideofvthelast and tower it intothe angle 230 between the side or the last and the projecting margin othe sole. 'The"dr-iver passage 22- of the nozzle It is spaced fromthe-side or: the last faple's lto force it under?" Fig; 51sa-iIagmentary 'Sectional-tiewof a irnpr dvedmefil d of maltingstitchdowrr -shoes', "a-"firs-t extension sole Hi; is secured-by tacksor otherwise to thebottom of 'uustratin a sole sup 7 staple 2% is driveninfa locati'orr 'spaced' outwardly from the angle' fl. jArnachinesuitable tor this operation, except for the thickenedwall r thenozzleg'is disclosed injleette'rs Patent ofth'e United States No.1,227,196, granted June 26; 1920,. upon on at salient points aboutthe-periphery of the shoe, it being customary 'under most conditions" toemploy three staples at the toefof the shoe, one staple being placed ateach side of the toe near the tip line and one at the end'of the toe, v

the points of attachment corresponding to the tack locations of thepulling-over machine; the

staplingoperation thus corresponds to and takes the place of the usualpulling-over operation with I of the upper'to the sole'being -locatedoutside the line of action of the' edges of the end-embracing ;wipers,the staples may remain in the shoe during thelasting operation andcausethe: tension;

' L ing' efiect of the wipers to be applied. to that portion of theupper which extends over the last -withoutsubstantial,loss of thelongitudinal and transverse pull applied to the uppefbx. the actiontoend-embracing wipers 30 which ar "rranged the shoe being held down upon"the table 'zaiby a yielding itoe rest 32'. withthewiperslll 'en'i-ugaging the upper and holdin it against the sides of the last, the table28 israised causing'the fofit' ard y u n p ns 9' i -2-.;o. he s nner- Vto: be conformed to thetfihape-of the last. After, 1 the table hasxreached the positioniqsh wn thewip er's ,30yclo'seapredeterxnihedtdistance to'car ryf e ldjOi a le ot h ju p r; betweenztSi e otth lastand the proiectimr mar n tit e/sole;

under the last bottometo-a "slight :exten so ethat.

definite crease will befornied'by wipers about the-periphery off -th e;tat the location whe e-the s a uni egth pee nd hessole t 'sione at ou wil,

V a br be-s a l s 6.; from inward movement withfthe wipersjq and, Ihencethe wiper 30 actfto dra the uppe ima terial from the part oftherppp er which extends; 7 over the top of the lastand thus,increasethe f V stapling:operation-. machinesuitahlyorganiidforcarryingout this step of the method-is disclosed in Letters Patent/of.the United Statee plication';of W. CfBaxte'rr, q QA seam 34 is nowsewedaboutgthe periphery. oft the 5110 at least front-the;breast-1ine;of, the V ,heel around the forepartto thehreastwline again theseam being located gthe. angle ,between;gthe side of the shoe. and theoutturned portion or the upper ns etw e ft eSi e o th ho endlt staples26. -,-This,opera tion may; be performed, asv

i u ed i i 4 b ns 1 .mw eh zs ingja, guidefefi to engage the;side of theshoe'epd a straightneedle 338 with mechanism to term a f chainstitchgSuch a machine isdisclo sedin Let loo gran-ted June 2l, 1932,;manapplication-013T. Leveque. The. work of; this machine -;i.sfg reatlyyfacilitatedbythe factthat the staples Z iare;

locatedout-offthe path of," the needle :sothat there is nodanger 01' theneedle being broken by contact with the staplea;Thegshoeg-rnay be conpletd inthe usual manner by attachingea-n (Jute;

sole 40 to theextension sole |l I ;and;the, uttumed portion ortheuppereby a seamfflrloeated outg wardly oi the; staples; 26.11; the'fstaples' are left in" i the shoe. Preferably a welt strip 44 is laidover 'the'outturned portion' of the upper-and secured to the 'shoe'bytheseam 42 so,-as tocover both the staplesZli and the-seam.

C p 1,996,096 this advantage, that, the pointsot. attachment Havingthusdescribed my invention, what I a claim as new and'desire to securePatent of the United States is:

1, That improvement "in methods for use'in the manufacture orstitchdownjshoes which con- I sistsin assembling an upper and a'flatextension sole upon a last,workin'g the upper over the last andsecuringthe upperat spaced locations to the extension sole by{fastenings driven at locations.

outwardly spaced from but close to the angle between the side ofthe lastand the projecting margm of the sole, simultaneously'working allportions. ot'the'mpper'about the toe into the angle between the sideotthe last and the projecting arginoffthfsble, jahd s ewing a scam in saidby Letters v glethroirgh' the outturned margin 01: the up- 7 per and theextension sole between the tastenings and'the sideot thelast. V: y 1 Y-2 fl'hat improvement'in iinethods for use in v the" manufacture ofstitchdown' shoes which qn is sei a mbli g 1% now? a d-.anat jex-I,

the-la t n l cur xou tum d. DO' 11onsi:o1.-th u p at spasedilo atio s tothe exte sio so e: rhy eta t ni es dr v e men io s o wardly sp ced-1mm bc seht t e an e een t e? side o f;the shoe and the outturnedportion-ofthe upb e workinsl he' o ns -1th up rbee tween e as nin m he ne w emthei 'sideptthe last and: the projecting margin of the sole, andsewingfaseam m'saidangle through the ou u ned:mafs nof efupp r and eexten ion;

so e"'bet ee lth -i s e ae an t si 1er;.-tn

last;

sole upon alast, working the upper over-the last and securing; the upperat spaced i locations to the extension sole by staples driven "atlocations outwardly, spaced from butclose -to the side ofzthelastanddriven through the-proj ectingmar si t e .sf eto km a11 po t1o s'or t e r.

about the .toe into the angle; between the' s ide of; hetlas an he P o cn m r of t e lepsq that the creasewex'tends sli ghtly under the; last;otto d sewi sla min. sa diane th u theouttmned margin otthe upper andthe ex;-;

tension sole between the staples. and the side of i .4, Thatimprovementin methods for eusein the 3- "i ibro h n p thods, re: us nf themanufacture of stitchdown; shoes which 0011. 1 is in a sem n an u n sa dan extension,

manufacture oi. stitchdown shoes which'con'sists in, assembling aneupperand an; extension sole 2 7 upon a last, working thel upper over the lastin outturned. relation, to the extension sole securing the upper atspaeedflocationetofltheex ten i nbhb stan1 1dfi at k m s em ee; o wa ditem. h ang e en the de .9? the lastland the projecting-marginofthe'sole,

simultaneously working the portions ofzthe" upper between .the, staples,into the angle) between j the sole and under the last bottom, and"sewing; a"

seam in said angle through the outturned marginf 655 of the upper andthe extension sole between the staples and the side of the last. f'

side of thelast and the projecting marginof -th ef I 'QD U weBU KEit x.

